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At airport -ready to catch flight

Mar. 5th, 2008 | 10:21 am

So I made it back to auckland international airport- rental car intact. Had a beautiful hr drive this morning along coast during sunrise before I hit the freeway to take me to airport. Now I only have to wait- I am ridiculously early for flight b/c when I booked rental car I didn't look to see what time my flight left. So I picked some early morning time to bring back car and my flight is near evening -Oh well. I'd do some last minute shopping and find a corner to read. I am appropriately exhausted. Ready to sleep in my own bed. Thanks everyone for all their comments- it was wonderful to check email daily and find messages from home. See you all soon I hope.  Alexis

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Hot water beach

Mar. 4th, 2008 | 03:12 pm

Went to hot water beach this morning. It was raining and windy and the surf was high - so it fantastic and stormy. But the real good bit is that if you go 2 hrs either side of low tide and go 50m on either side of this marker rock and dig your feet in then you open up a volcanic hot water spring ! If its a really nice day at low tide people will bring shovles out and dig a hot tub in the snad and lounge. You have to be careful b/c can scorch slef so the trick is to have a trickle of a stream from below and the water from the sea mixing to a proper temp. Truely awesome.

Then drove to last stop before fly out tomorrow- Coromandel town. I went on a train ride up a mountain to a nice view. This eccentric potter built this mini rail on his land -took him 20 yrs to complete and was interesting.

Still full from my night before the night before I leave dinner- which all foodies would applaud. It was delicious! Let's see if I can top it tonight. Will write again from airport... :(

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To Mimi

Mar. 3rd, 2008 | 04:30 pm

Hey Mimi (my grandmother for those who haven't had the pleasure of meeting her)- So mom said you were joining the technological times and getting a laptop/broadband to follow my trip as well as surf the web, etc. Yes, only 1 or 2 days left of this journal since the trip is wrapping up. But no worries - I'm trying to finance my way to Thailand for 3 weeks right after I graduate - so I'll likely have another journal to follow if that trip works out:) All good fun. Alexis

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Cathedral Cove

Mar. 3rd, 2008 | 03:34 pm

Drove north about an hr this morning to Hahei -access pt to cathedral cove and other great beaches. Hahei is named this after Maori legend which states that Chief Hei was one of the original Maori to come over in the great migration after Kupe had discovered this area. From the waka on the way in Chief Hei said that one of the small islands off the beach of Hahei looked like the shape of his nose -go figure. Well Maori custom is that if a land mass looks like on of your body parts it becomes yours -and everything you can see from it. So Chief Hei got all this land. Now Hahei- is the breath of Hei -because winds come across onto Hahei beach. 

Roads up here are like taking a pencil and drawing interconnected continous S's. Very curvy. Here's a few views from drive:


Actually looks nicer stretched a bit like this.. 


Coastline of Coromandel.. 

Came up early and hopped on a sea-kayak trip out to around some of the islands and to Cathedral cove. 


We went through little caves... 


I like this shot. 


We went into caves- this one is called lover's cave b/c a beach forms inside only at low tide. Visited quite a lot by paddlers during the day, but the guides recon you should bring your girl out here at night by kayak with a stash of candles and some wine ;)


Cathedral cove from the water- this little beach area is only accessible by sea kayak/water or an hr hike from hahei. So decently isolated. 


We took a walk around the beach, had a bit of a swim. Somehow I think pics of natural landscape plus kayak makes the picture immensely better. 
 

Cathedral rock.


Looking out through cathedral cove. Cathedral cove named b/c walking though/out of the rock feels like walking in and out of cathedral. The rocks are made from volcanic ash and are actually quite soft and being worn away by water. 


Looking the other direction. The bay we see is called Mercury bay b/c as Captain Cook was circumnavigating NZ he wanted a calm spot to view the passing of the platent Mercury to figure out longitude and latitude and he stopped in this bay.
 

Me. 


Did I mention we all made cappuccinos, mochacinos, lattes on the beach- damn hard life... hope my friends I take out kayaking don't expect this service from now on :)
 

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Opoutere

Mar. 3rd, 2008 | 03:21 pm

So after caving I drove north to a peninsula called the Coromandel peninula. The guide books say it is less on the tourist loop and has some great natural beauty and top-notch beaches. I figured I'd try and slow down and rest before heading home. I spent the night in Opoutere where there is nothing but a handful of houses, a youth hostel, and an estuary. Really quiet. See below. 


The view from the youth hostel.. this is the estuary. 


So the youth hostel have little kayaks that are available to guests -kayaking is only really good at high tide and this was definately approaching lowish tide -but I was determined- so this is me in the middle of the estuary in only about half a foot of water, getting stuck every other stroke. I wasn't out there very long. 


I headed back for pizza (that I had bought in the town 20 minutes prior -cunning huh - and a glass of vino and my view from dry land. 



Dinner spot. 

There is a really nice little walk through the forests to the beach that takes 15 minutes that I woke up early and did this morning - had the beach to myself - sprinted back to car though (in clogs no less) b/c I had to get to hanei for this mornings adventure.. read on..

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Fear

Mar. 2nd, 2008 | 08:29 pm

This was the first adventure in New Zealand that I actually lost sleep over. Not b/c of the sport itself but b/c of the weather conditions - it had been raining the day before and all the night I was in Waitomo. So yes, I woke at 3 am and was duly afraid for the morning since I was planning on caving. Waitomo is known for its limestone caves (over 350 of them in the area) which are filled with glowworms- or gnats whose poo lights up in the dark and looks like the milkyway across the top of the caves.  So I had dreams of all the water filling the caves and leaving little to no air for my caving. But no worries - it was a fantastic experience. All safe. 

So we abseiled (or rappeled) 40 m into the cave -see pic below - then explored about in the cave, at one point we had a flying fox (or zip line) which we shot down 10 meters in the absolute dark (all part of the scary fun), then we intertubed on the cave water or rivers turning off our lights to see the glowworms, we rock climbed, we waded through more water, we fit through tight limestone holes, and eventually we rock climbed up a water fall to daylight. We caved for about 5 hrs. And it was one of the best things I've every done. SO very good. 


I was first on the abseil  - we were in full wetsuit with caving hats fitted with lights:)


Oh on a little underground slide.. 


This was our group photo at the end.. 


Some of the company's standard photos that show what the caves look like. 


With intertubes.. 


Yes it was just like this.. not bad. 


Shows you what the glowworms look like - but the caves I saw were just covered with them:)

Be on a plane back in 3 days.. only 2 more days of NZ.

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Blur..

Mar. 1st, 2008 | 08:26 pm

Today was a bit of a blur. I woke this morning in Wellington and went to Wellington's pride and joy - their museum Te Papa. Which is free!! I arrived early and was hoping to get a coffee somewhere in the area and low and behold they read my mind- their bookstore and cafe open an hr before the museum. Early birds rejoice!  The museum was fantastic- exhibits on volcanic activity and tectonic plates of New Zealand, birds and plants of New Zealand, maori culture, whales and whaling. Saw a blue whale exhibit showing the heart- the size of a VW bug -a small child could crawl into it!

then I drove in an overcast, drizzling rain for about 6 and a half hrs north. Charlotte - played your cd many many times! I have a few things up near Auckland that I want to do before flying out in 4 days time :( I'm not too sad b/c I'm just about broke.

And Mom I might need a driver on the 6th to take me in my jet-lagged state up to school to get fitted for cap and gown and pay for diploma etc. - don't trust myself driving on right without several days sleep.

Stay tuned.

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Beautiful morning

Feb. 29th, 2008 | 09:15 am

 I saw the Southern cross last night. It's as bright and noticable as Orion which I also saw. If you face the south then find the 2 pointer starts and see the cross laying sideways. Very cool. 

Also for the first time- I saw the sun rise over water this morning. Just like our sunsets in reverse. 

Sunrise. 

The only way to really start your day is to go for a sunrise, tide-fighting walk this morning in a seal colony. I gulped down a latte on the 10 minute drive to the trailhead and took Mom's camera (which can't be uploaded here- sorry folks) and had a beautiful stroll on the Kaikoura peninsula. You can go along the peninsula on the beach and flat rocks 2 hrs before and after low tide and then return on the cliff side. See below for visual. This morning low tide and sunrise corresponded which was nice. I was the only one out there for the first hr and a bit so it was fantastic. Actually a few steps into my walk as I turned the corner, I came within 6 feet of a few seals. 


Poster of Kaikoura and peninsula -can see the beach with cliff - walked that this morning. Seals live on all those rocky bits. 

Just take the ferry back tonight after lunching in a vineyard, so will update again tomorrow. All's well.

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North to Kaikoura

Feb. 28th, 2008 | 08:40 pm

Went back for photo of this: 


So cool. 

So I traveled north to Kaikoura today- spectacular drive- really the whole South Island is like driving through a national park- stunning views at every turn. Wish you could pull over every few minutes to take photo. Kaikoura is a seaside city with good fishing, good seafood, and sperm whales. This use to be a whaling community and they whaled most the whales way down in number- now there are 3 resident sperm whales and other whales: orcas, blue whales sometimes pass through.  


Kaikoura


Some of the rocky coastline. Dan- you'll be happy to know there is loads of good beachside camping just below Kaikoura. 


Black pebble beach. Aqua water. 


You can't leave kaikoura with having seafood. Their specialty are crayfish- but in restaurants can run up to 85 dollars for a whole one. One of the best places to ensure fresh seafood is this outside/seaside barabecue where everything is sauted fresh. I had mussles and a crayfish fritter - really good and cheap eats. Plus view of ocean while you eat:)


Not a great shot of the screen- but it illistrates why sperm whales are here- the land is brown - the light green is the shallow waters. The dark blue- a 15 minute motor offshore shows a deep trench/underwter canyon that runs alongside kaikoura- up to 1000m deep. So the sperm whales can dive down there and feed on schools of squid, etc. 


Another boat along side us- and the spout = sperm whale. The boast find whales and just follow position. The whales generally stay underwater feeding for 30-40 minutes then surface for 15 minutes. When we are near coordinates of last sighting the captain will put on head phones and listen underwater for characteristic clicks the whale makes while feeding. 


We are only seeing about 1/10th of the sperm whale body here.


A mural on the side of a shop.. but this is the classic shot of a sperm whale- the fin comes up when its heading back down in a dive to feed. I tried for the shot but my camera wasn't fast enough- but saw it! 


This is the local dolphin - a dusky dolphin playing under the boat.


A self portrait waving hello. 


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Whitewater -Take 2: different river

Feb. 27th, 2008 | 07:49 pm

I couldn't help myself - it's just that much fun- plus this is a different river.. lots of grade 2 and 3 and 2 serious grade 5 - one 50m stretch and one awesome 400m stretch with lots of turns... So the rafting company came to the hostel door and picked me up - a group from Christchurch were taken to a sheep farm or station of 26,000 acres up near the rapids where we had lunch (the station has been in the same family since the 1800's and the rafting company is owned by the daughter of the family). We had a great time rafting then it was back for hot showers at the station/lodge and barbecue and a beer before the drive home. So must say I'm very content right now. 


My raft - Please notice the fantastic scenery.. I'm in the white helmet.. 


The river. These aren't even the really good rapids. 


A happy boat.. 


An action shot. 


So it wasn't all love and bunnies. I actually don't really remember the long class 5 rapid b/c all chaos broke out at at some point we had the guide catapulted over the top the raft and in the water and had 3 other crew in the water. So I spent most the rapid hanging onto and trying to pull in the 250 pd guy who fell out across from me. This with the guide who after he got back in the boat kept yelling to us dry crew "get them in, pull them in" - somehow yes got the bloke in -and was rewarded with a kiss on the cheek and many hugs - (this older guy was afraid of drowning and doesn't swim especially well). All good fun. 


Relaxing in the water. 


End of the day.. 

Hey- Is this journal getting harder to load with all the pics? Let me know and I'll delete some of the early pics.. Countdown -  a week in NZ left :( But I'll be happy to be home with friends and family. 

 

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Christchurch

Feb. 26th, 2008 | 08:07 pm

This is my one day of "city" - I spent the late afternoon walking the city center. 


A cathedral marks the center of the city.. currenlt the festival of flowers is running so the city is awash with colorful, fragrant bouquets. 


Beautiful river runs through park and city proper - punting possible:)


You can take the trolley on a loop around the city and hear a little history about the place. 


But the most spectacular/remarkable part is the extensive botanical gardens in the corner of the city which must be miles square - just beautiful - above is a flower herb garden rimmed by neatly boxed/manicured shrub that ran for at least a football field in length. Old ladies were sitting on tiny stools drawing and painting from the arrangement. 


Labeled dahila. 


The whole rose garden was in full bloom. 

And Christchurch being as international as it is has diverse restaurants: Brett- I couldn't resist :


Borsh for dinner - It was really good.. Cheers!

Oh and:
On the outskirts of Christchurch by the airport is the International Antartic Center- Burr.... Saw a C-5 Galaxy plane being loaded for one of its last flights to anatartic- most scientists are coming home to avoid the winter there. 


Took a ride on the haggard - a Swedish land/water military vehicle that is used by all the teams in the Antartic- we climbed 45 degree angles, went over simulated crevices, went sideways at a 30 degree angle, went in water -where the vehicle floats! 

 
Really upset this pic was out of focus -going to half to go back on way out of town and get a real shot - everyone going to Antartic comes here for couple days -gets issued cold-weather clothes and gets safety breifing and then gets flown over in US Air Force Planes. The US station -can house up to 2000 people. The NZ station is smaller. 


Had to play in their snow/wind tunnel that is kept at 17 degrees F but gets down to -8 F with wind chill


In the middle- penguins - yes the picture of the pengiun is on all the adverts for the center -despite these penguins really being native to NZ. They are all disabled penguins with missing fins, paralized flippers, blindness, etc -couldn't surive in wild- so they are housed here in the public eye. 

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Mt. Cook - the next morning

Feb. 26th, 2008 | 08:05 pm

So the morning was clear and beautiful as the sun was rising- see pictures if you were interested in what was hiding behind the clouds yesterday :) 


Mt Cook -lovely summit. 


Other peaks in the range. Equally dangerous -though not as tall. 


Neat shot - the statue of Sir Edmund Hillary is oriented so he is looking out to Mt. Cook. 

 
On the way out - shows how Mt Cook is the highest peak..

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Mt. Cook

Feb. 25th, 2008 | 06:49 pm

I am in the small cluster of hotels and restaurants know as the Mt. Cook village at the base of Mt. Cook. I went on a lovely day hike -5 or so hrs. of sun-rain-sun-wind-wind and rain-sun (weather constantly changing). But I am my father's daughter and had a pack with: rainjacket, extra dry clothes, snickers, nuts, funge, apples, cheese, mittens, hat, etc. etc. Expedition style packing for short day hike! Thanks dad! Anyway -great hike, and also visted the Sir. Edmund Hillary museum and planetarium. Awesome- He was really well loved in New Zealand for his mountaineering - he climbed Mt Cook in preparation for his Everest and Antartic expeditions. He was first on Everest with Sherpa Tenzing -for which he became famous and was knighted. Love his spiritual comment on coming back to basecamp and asked how it went: "we knocked the bastard off."


The trail


Trial.. 


Trail..


First of a couple swing briges over water like below:




Not bad. 


This is a lake at the base of Mt. Cook (covered in cloud here).. in nice weather you can seakayak in this very very small lake- just for kicks -say you kayaked in a glacier lake. Dirty glacier is seen at the far back edge of lake. 


Yesterday I saw the summit of Mt. Cook from the air- but today this was the best shot I could get of the mountain. First summited in 1894. 


Memorial to all the lives lost mountaineering in this national park -lined with plaques and plaques on the other sides.


Liked this shot


End of the day Rainbow..


Tribute statue to Sir Hillary who just died Jan 11 2008 at age 88. Just bought his autobiography- so will be learning more day by day. His picture has been on the 5 NZ dollar bill for some time.  

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Overhead in Omarama

Feb. 24th, 2008 | 05:55 pm

So 7 years after first seeing brillant photos of New Zealand gliding on Pete's wall I finally get a first hand look - &7  years wait was worth it. New goal is to someday return with time and funds to work my way to solo, but that may take another 7 years... So gliding is very popular in England, but not so much in the states -though may be possible when I move to Utah. I'm in Omarama and took a fabulous 2 hr flight. Clear skys, using lift from the mountains -great view. Gliding culture is also top notch- welcoming people, good community, nice little gliding club and cafe. Here are the pics (lots this time): 


Pete knows the family that runs this gliding school -the Wills. 


Ready for my flight - best seat in the house


Yes, for now only co-pilot.. but I did get to control the glider once we were soaring at good altitude- practiced left/right turns, nose up/down for speed, etc. Only lost composure - ie stopped steering - with heavy turbulence.. can be like the worse bumps on a commercial flight.  But you get use to it- overall very smooth flight.


Tow plane helps us get off the ground 


View of airfield from above - landing strip is green strip on top, long white buildings are glider hangers


Awesome views... 




Mt cook in the distance.. 


Not quite level b/c when we find lift we need to keep turning to keep in hot spot where air is rising.. 


Altimeter speaks for itself really..




Lots of other gliders in the air -great gliding day and can train here..


Home safe and sound- but would rather be back in the air:)

 

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Regrets

Feb. 23rd, 2008 | 07:44 pm

No I don't have any regrets but there are definately things I've missed (heard about too late, no time, booked day trip wrong, etc. ) and things I want to do next time that wasn't prepared to do this trip - like 5-10 day hiking trips.. Overall i plan to be a great resource for folks who want to do a New Zealand six -eight week trip - yes that's how much time you need to just skim the surface. Below Lists will be updated with time and thought -those who know me well know I like my lists.. :)

Things missed -should do:
1)Cape Regina -at tip of north island- dune beach
2)Golden bay - at tip of South island -also called Murder'ers bay b/c Tasman attacked by Moari here - sheep fields turn to dunes turn to beach
3)Milford sound observatory - a marine observatory in Milford that lets you see underwater -all the sea life that usually lives much deeper, but b/c situation live quite close to surface
4)Canyoning from Wanaka or Queenstown - put on wet suit and boulder, rappel, slide down rock slides in water gorge. - looks awesome

Another time:
-Milford sound track
-Gliding course Omarama

Cusher version (for parents, etc. one day):
-overnight boat trip to Doubtful sound rather than kayak camp
-  

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Milford Sound and medical emergency

Feb. 23rd, 2008 | 07:26 pm

I went up to Milford Sound in a luxurious coach-cruise-coach - b/c it is suppose to be stunning - and I wanted to compare to Doubtful. Overall, nothing beats being at kayak level on a sound.. but at Milford today it was raining and since these rocks are just granite with little to no topsoil the rain just runs off in spectacular waterfalls -everywhere.. Fabulous. So enjoyed being on the sound in 40 knot winds and whitepeaked waves around. 

Yes, just after the boat captain reminded everone to be careful, I turned toward the heavy door to the boat's back deck to an Austrain woman yelling at her husband "my finger! my finger!" - she had slammed and very just about severed her thumb in the door - half way down distal phalanges (sp?) - ie between nail and first knuckle - yes training went into effect - I got her to apply direct pressure with towels, got her seated and calm, got ice, and staff got the boat medic -who since there were basic supplies only.. steristripped it in place and applied a tight bandage. Boat was on its way back in but increased speed - she was 2 hrs by car to medical care and likely 4 to hand surgeon.. After I got her situated I sat down and realized I'm definately not a trauma surgeon:) No desire to stich!! And no didn't get picture of severed finger despite my pretending to be photojournalist.

 
On the way to Milford.. 


Rain water running off granite faces.. 


Again.. 


See a theme..


Tasman sea - closest point to Australia


Local tree - Punga - took b/c thought would be good computer wallpaper. 

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3 day kayak trip to Doubtful sound

Feb. 23rd, 2008 | 03:04 am

So the trip was 3 beautiful days of kayaking in Doubtful sound -one of the most beautiful and isolated sounds in Fiordland. We cancelled day 4 b/c of the forecast of rain adn 40 knot winds heading into the sound. The first afternoon of kayaking we actually had 15 knot winds and 2 foot swells that we were paddling/battle-ing into and that was tough going so 40 knot winds doesn't sound like fun. The Fiordland is rock that was pushed up from the ocean floor and over 2 million years was worn away by glaciers -hence called Fiord (just like in Norway). The current ecosystem is finely balanced moss/trees with minimal topsoil on huge rock faces. Very cool b/c see areas where tree has gottn too heavy and peeled away top carpet layer of roots and moss from rock like rolling up carpet and leaving bare rock. ALso see areas of rockslides. The trees and flora depend on constant or nearly constant rain to survive. The rain runs down to the sea in many stunning waterfalls - the runoff brings tannins from moss and such and forms a freshwater/tannin rich layer that settles above salt water and in times of heavy rainfall can be many meters thick. This blocking of light by way of tannin accumulation creates a unique underater enviornment that lets creatures usually found in deeper darker ocean floor to live near the surface. 

So really this is one of the most stunning places to kayak -only downside is not the world's best place to camp -beaches and forest are home to the biting sandflies.. even 100% deet does little to stop these bugs. I am currently blogging at 3 am b/c can't sleep due to itching my 50 or so bites and my dorm mates hate me b/c top bunk squeks when you move.. so here I am. But truely trip worth every minute of itchy hell. 


6 am boat ride to 40 min car trip to start of Doubtful sound -not an easy process getting to put-in

Sunrise on boat ride.. cool low clouds. 


View from above of Doubtful sound -where I was kayaking. 


Doubtful sound map..


Kayaks at the ready.. we were in tandem kayaks b/c they are a lot more stable and b/c some folk on trip and no real kayaking experience - we paddled 26 km first and last day and about 17 the middle day - so I'm sore..


Our views- magnificent -tall cliff faces with lush green forests. Scale was breathtaking.. sometimes in middle of the waterway it would feel like you were paddling but not moving forward just b/c of the massive scale. 


Nice...


WE all went under waterfalls. 


BY rock faces..


Our group -after photo- when we all know each other real well -after spending 24/7 together for 3 daya - and when we all desperately need showers. 

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Short and sweet

Feb. 19th, 2008 | 08:10 pm

Hey everyone- I need to keep this entry short b/c I have a 4 am wake-up tomorrow (Yes, this is crazy for vacation but oh well). I am in Te Anu down in the Fiordlands. I head out on a 3 or 4 day kayak camping trip -length depends on how the rain and wind treat us -right now it is beautiful but forecast doesn't look good. Anyway I'm responsible for my own food and I have to sort all that out before bed tonight. No interent in campsites -so mom don't worry if you don't hear from me for a few days. 
Woke up this morning in Queenstown - adventure capital of New Zealand - great little city perched on lake. Walking around the city center last night was great- little shops, restaurants with patio seating, street preformers, boats.. really nice little place. So I found white water again this morning, but this time no raft.. group and guides hit 5 km stretch with class 2 and 3 rapids with wetsuits and boogie boards - so awesome. No pics though -sorry fam..  
Anyway- I'll post on the 23rd or 24th again :)

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Hostels

Feb. 18th, 2008 | 12:17 am

So - Backpacker hostels are really cheap over here - cheaper than dinner sometimes. Average cost for a dorm room is 20 New Zealand dollars- or 17 AMerican dollars. The rooms are really nice and the other backpackers are very international and really good people. There is always a kitchen that you can use to cook in - well stocked with pots and pans - and most backpackers cook dinner and breakfast there. If you are traveling as a couple there are a few double backpacker rooms for say 50 NZ dollars.. but more economical is rented a camper van that has sleeping area and small kitchen (and the roads are filled with them).  

 
Room in Russell hostel -


Little porch right outside room and view of harbor in background. 

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Franz Josef

Feb. 17th, 2008 | 04:59 pm

So I am in Franz Josef -and went on a glacier walk today. The Franz Joseph glacier is one of only a few that go from glacier down to temperate rainforest: the other being the Fox Glacier down the road and a few in Patagonia and Chile. Went on a 7-8 hr hike today with guide - 5 hr on the ice. We started out on a set path then just followed our guide off making our path as we went. The glacier has been here for centuries - there is a bowl at the top were something insane like 50 meters of snow falls a year..this is the accumulation bowl and you can see this by helicopter or heli-hike combo is you wish. We hiked an area that you'll see in pictures that is basically the spill over zone -frozen waterfall of sorts. 

 
This is the approach from rainforest to glacier and the ice we are aiming for. 


Crampons necessary.


The ice stairs our guide would carve out. 


Us in the thick of it. Some of the ice walls went up 10 meters.


Still doesn't do justice to true scale.


You can see back where we started on the ground. 



On the ice..
 

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